TheLoneRider
a nomad in search of Easter Eggs
Chiang Khan, Thailand

The Rapids of Kaeng Khut Khu, Chiang Khan Jun 20, 2020

The Rapids of Kaeng Khut Khu, Chiang Khan

Location Google Map: Kaeng Khut Khu, Chiang Khan (district), Loei (province), Thailand

Kaeng Khut Khu
After Phu Thok, our tuk-tuk took us to another nearby attraction, about 5.5 kms downstream on the Mekong River from Chiang Khan proper. It is the manicured park of Kaeng Khut Khu. The greenery has life-size statues of masked ghosts, popularized in Loei's annual festival, the Phi Ta Khon (held in Dan Sai District late June) and the Phi Khon Nam (Chiang Khan's version of the Ghost Festival).

Legend of the Giant Lao Hunter
Within the park is also a giant statue of Jueng Khueng Dangdaeng, a giant Lao hunter who, as legend would have it, attempted to use an arrow to shoot a white buffalo across the Mekong in Thailand. However, a boat passed-by and startled the buffalo and got away. Angered, Jueng tried to throw boulders into the river to stop boats from crossing it again. Tricked by a monk, he was persuaded to use bamboos across his shoulders to carry the boulders. The bamboo broke in half and impaled the hunter. He died with his body spewed across the river.

The Rapids of Kaeng Khut Khu, Chiang Khan
boulders/rocks littered on the Mekong spanning Laos and Thailand

Another legend has it that Jueng shot his arrow on the mountain top which caused a landslide and formed what is now a cliff.

Well, that's the legend as narrated to me by a Thai. Hmmm. I was thinking, "Do Lao people know that Thais erected a giant statue of a bad Laos hunter?". I'd be curious to know what the Lao version is about this legend. He-he.

Rapids
Further readings say that there is a waterfall in the area during the rainy season, and rapids during the dry season. You could also board a boat from here to go cruising along the Mekong (but it will not reach Chiang Khan proper). B60/pax.

Ending Thoughts
If not for anything else, the scenic bicycle ride from town to Kaeng Khut Khu along the Mekong River is already a rewarding experience. The park has food vendors and boutique shops so it's ok to stay longer and appreciate the offerings before heading back to town.

--- Gigit (TheLoneRider)
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2 Ways to Get to Kaeng Khut Khu from Chiang Khan proper

Kaeng Khut Khu is along the Mekong River, about 5.5 kms downstream from Chiang Khan proper. The promenade is a continuous pathway that connects the 2 places.

  1. You can walk it or cycle it. It's a pleasant bicycle ride in the late afternoon when the sun is about to go down.
  2. hire a tuk-tuk to take you first to Phu Thok for the sunrise and then to Kaeng Khut Khu and back to town. For 3 pax, it's about B100/person. Again, there is no set standard so you'll have to negotiate the price.
  3. No, there is no regular boat from the town proper to Kaeng Khut Khu.


Reader Comments:

Suzi SuchiSuzi USA
(June 27, 2020) great pics! looks like an interesting place. I was intrigued by the people inside the giant's red nose...?

TheLoneRiderTheLoneRider
(June 27, 2020) Legend has it that he was so big, people can go inside his nose!

Leave a comment?

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Alms-Round (Sai Bat) with the Buddhist Monks of Chiang Khan Chiang Khan, Thailand

Alms-Round (Sai Bat) with the Buddhist Monks of Chiang Khan

(Jun 21, 2020) Alms-giving to the monks in the early morning is a long-standing tradition in Thailand. People line-up the streets around 6am with their gifts (mostly food) and offer them to the passing monks. The monks in return betow their blessings. It's an interactive cycle that weaves spirituality to day-to-day life. Buddhism is a steeply integrated part of Thai life.....more »»


Chiang Khan Travel Information / Tips

About Chiang Khan

This single statement tells you a lot Chiang Khan: NOBODY LOCKS THEIR BICYCLES!!! Yes, it is a very safe place. Many foreigners don't even know this place exists, but it is popular to local Thai tourists (and Koreans, I was told). The main draw of Chiang Khan is the kilometer-long walking street and the promenade along the scenic Mekong River. The street is lined-up with hotels, boutiques, vendors, restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops. The promenade is particularly charming to stroll about in time for the sunset.

Direct Bus from Nong Khai to Chiang Khan along the Mekong River

Before, there was no direct travel route. You either:

  1. take a bus to Udon Thani, another bus to Loei, and another bus to Chiang Khan
  2. or take the slow, dilapidated, and uncomfortable green bus along the winding Mekong route, get off at Pak Chom, take another bus towards Loei but get off at Ban That (village), and then take another bus to Chiang Khan. No wonder people don't go to Chiang Khan from Nong Khai!

As of June 18, 2020 (the trip I took), when things were beginning to normalize from the COVID pandemic, there seems to be a few changes.

  1. the 3 trips/day by the green bus (7:30am, 11:00am and 3:00pm) have been reduced to 1 trip at 12 noon
  2. BEST, the bus goes all the way to Chiang Khan. You don't have to get off at Pak Chom.
  3. Trip Details from the Nong Khai bus terminal
    departure time: 12 noon (only one trip)
    duration: 5 hours
    fare: B250
    stops:
    Nong Khai (left 12 noon)
    Tha Bo (arrived 12:55 pm)
    Si Chiang Mai (arrived 1:25 pm)
    Sangkhom (arrived 2:35 pm)
    Pak Chom (arrived 4:05 pm)
    Chiang Khan (arrived 5:05 pm)
Chiang Khan Attractions
  1. Walking Steet - animated street line with shops, hotels, restos, bars, cafe and buskers
  2. Promenade - planked walkway extending for kilometers with the Mekong River on one side and fancy hotels and restaurants on the other side
  3. Phu Thok view point - 7.5 kilometers from the town center towards the mountain, it reaches 480 meters and offers stunning view of the sunrise and mountain tops piercing through the low-lying clouds
  4. Kaeng Khut Khu - 5.5kms downstream on the Mekong from town center, the manicured park has life-like statues of masked characters celebrated during their Phi Ta Khon Ghost Festival. It also has a 2-storie statue of the Jueng Khueng Dangdaeng, a Laos giant hunter who, as legend would have it, became part of the rocks sprinkled on the Mekong between Laos and Thailand
Chiang Khan to Loei by Bus At the Loei Bus Terminal (see map), there are numerous daily trips to Loei (en route to Nakhon Ratchasima): 6:30 am, xxxx am, . xxx hours, B38.

Chiang Khan Blogs by TheLoneRider

  1. Alms-Round (Sai Bat) with the Buddhist Monks of Chiang Khan Jun 21, 2020
  2. The Rapids of Kaeng Khut Khu, Chiang Khan Jun 20, 2020
  3. Ascending Phu Thok Hill Viewpoint Jun 20, 2020
  4. Chiang Khan Promenade by the Mekong River Jun 19, 2020
  5. Rummaging Through the Walking Street of Chiang Khan, Loei Jun 19, 2020
  6. A First-Timer in Chiang Khan, Loei, Thailand Jun 18, 2020
  7. Nong Khai - Chiang Khan Roadtrip June 18, 2020

Travel Tips for Thailand

How to Get a 60-Day Thai Tourist Visa and then Extend by another 30 Days

    60-Day Thai Tourist Visa

    NOTE: There is no need to go back to your country to get the Thai tourist visa. Any major city with a Thai Embassy will do. Apparently there is also no need to have an invitation from a Thai establishment to justify the visa.

  1. Bring the following to the Thai embassy:
    a) proof of money (bank statement will suffice)
    b) flight booking to Thailand
    c) onward flight back to your country from Thailand
    d) filled-in tourist visa form
    e) 2 passport pictures
    f) hotel booking in Thailand (they didn't ask me for this but better be safe)
    g) passport with at least 6 months validity
  2. After handing over all the documents, they will ask you to come pick your passport with the visa the following day from 4 to 5pm. That's it!
  3. NOTE: after 2 successful attempts, I was already questioned the 3rd time.

    30-Day Extension

    NOTE: When your 60-day visa is close to expiry and you want to extend your stay. No need to leave Thailand.

  1. bring the following to the Immigration Office:
    a) passport (make sure your Tourist Visa hasn't expired yet)
    b) Baht 1900
    c) photocopy of your passport + visa duration date stamp + TM6 card (white immigration card) and sign all the copies
    d) completed TM7 visa extension form (available at the Immigration Office)
    e) one 4cmx6cm passport picture
  2. submit the above to the Front Desk. They will give you a stub with your number on it. Take a seat and wait for your number to be called
  3. when your number is called, your picture will be taken. Then go back to your seat. They will call you again.
  4. when they call you again, they'll give you your passport with your extended visa. That's it!
  5. when there are no lines, the whole process can take only 10 minutes
General Travel Tips
  1. arrive early - in case there is a snag (visa snag, documentation snag, transport ticket snag, etc.), you will have ample time to troubleshoot the problem if you arrive early (to the airport, to the bus terminal, etc.)
  2. put detailed itinerary on the Calendar apps of your smart-phone according to timelines - this is where you do all your thinking and planning. Once written down, you don't have to think anymore while you are on the journey...you just follow the steps. This frees your mind for something else that might happen while you are already en route
  3. avoiding scams - as a general rule, I ignore the touts or anyone I don't know who call out to me. The calling comes in many forms - "Hi! Where are you from?", "Excuse me! Excuse me!", "Where are you going?". I don't look them in the eye and I remain non-verbal with them. If you reply to them, you just gave them an 'in' to hound you. In order not to look rude, I smile and wave the 'not interested' hand to them, without looking at them.
  4. power bank - hand-carry your power bank. Do not check it in. You can be called in when you are already inside the plane to go all the way to the loading dock so you can personally remove the power bank...and chances are, you'll have to surrender it to them. And you might delay the plane departure!

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