Jan 4-7, 2015

Exploring the Northern Capital of Vietnam - Hanoi

Location: Hanoi, Vietnam

The Epic Ride to Hanoi
The epic 26-hour sleeping bus ride from Luang Prabang (Laos) to Hanoi (Vietnam) was numbing to say the least. It was dark and drizzling when we arrived Hanoi. After a few difficulties getting our bearing at the bus terminal, we finally got under way by riding a moto-taxi then a XeBuyt (local bus) to the flower market where we were to be picked-up by Tuyen's Hanoi friend. She would be our gracious host for the duration of our Hanoi trip.

West Lake
Hanoi is cold at this time of year. We had to bundle up. Our shire was a skip away from West Lake, the biggest lake within Hanoi. With its 18km circumference, you see the more established 5-star hotels (Sheraton and Hotel Inter Continental) and high-priced condos along its shoreline. It's an ideal place to jog or bike around, fish or just mood away with the lake's misty drape.

Exploring Hanoi by Bike
For the most part, Tuyen and I explored Hanoi on a bike, stopping here and there for what seems like something interesting. We biked around the lakes, visiting other neighborhoods and just stopped for food whenever we see a crowd of locals lining up to what looks like a popular place. Hanoi is where you find the best street food which is common knowledge in Vietnam. The internationally famous Pho rice noodle soup has its origin here in Hanoi.

Old Quarter
Old Quarter is the closest thing to Bangkok's Khaosan Road. The backpacker havens are here - tour agencies, dorm lodging, bus ticketing, cafes and eating places. The streets are narrow and the structures are old. Up to now, Old Quarter remains the enclave of family-run businesses who specialize in particular trades for generations.

Recent History
Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam. A place is always better appreciated when you know the series of events in its history that shaped the people and culture to what it is today. Hanoi's history dates back to as early as 1010 as the political center of Vietnam. But let's fast forward to...

1802 - the Nguyen Dynasty unified Vietnam moving its capital from Hanoi to Hue. Hanoi played a lesser role
1873 - the French occupies Hanoi reducing the Nguyen kings' role as ministerial figureheads
1940 - the French flee as Japanese forces occupy Hanoi during WWII
1945 - with the defeat and withdrawal of the Japanese, Hanoi became the seat of government for Ho Chi Minh's Viet Minh government
1946 - with the Japanese gone, the French tries to take back Hanoi from the Viet Minh government. This started a 9-year war between the communist forces of Ho Chi Minh and the French
1954 - the French suffers defeat from the communists at the Battle of Dien Bien Phu prompting the signing of the Geneva Accords at the Geneva Conference (1954), giving North Vietnam its independence with Hanoi as its capital. This divided Vietnam between the communist North Vietnam and South Vietnam at the 17th Parallel. This also ended French involvement in Indochina. The US was not involved in the conflict yet but it sent military advisers to South Vietnam.
1964 - the US alleged that North Vietnamese forces torpedoed US destroyers in an unprovoked attack at the now infamous, "Tonkin Gulf Incident". This was the start of the American military intervention into the Vietnam War that would last another 9 years. Hanoi was heavily bombed by the US. Decades later, Robert McNamara, then Secretary of State, admitted that the Gulf of Tonkin incident never happened. In short, the incident was the US's pretext to go into war.
1975 - the US suffers defeat from the communists and withdraws completely from Vietnam. North and South Vietnam are unified under the communist rule
Modern Day - Hanoi has been annexing adjacent districts, commune and provinces in its expansion program. It is undergoing a rapid expansion boom with skyscrapers altering the city's landscape. It may soon eclipse Ho Chi Minh City as Vietnam's largest city.

Cham and her Family
Our stay in Hanoi could not have been as comfortable if not for the kindness of Cham and her family. They provided us a place to stay and support for much of what we needed - bicycles, maps, taking us for breakfast and eats. They even invited us to dinner at their new place serving us Hanoi cuisine that cannot be bought in restaurants. Tuyen is lucky to have such generous and giving friends. To Cham and her lovely family, I am grateful.

--- TheLoneRider
YOGA by Gigit | Learn English | Travel like a Nomad | Donation Bank

waking up the following day inside the bus and we're on the Vietnam border

we were to meet our Hanoi hosts at the flower market - I didn't realize Vietnam has so many colors for roses...I counted about 8 including the ones with gradients

climbing up my hosts' tree to untie a strangled tree branch

pounding the pavement of Hanoi in search of a hotel deal

Hanoi has many lakes - this one is right smack inside the city center

Tuyen stiffens on 'attention!' when I take her picture

we were treated like family by Tuyen's friends

Cham taking us for a morning noodle soup

a $1.3 million Rolls Royce on a cheap car wash

a 12-level pagoda...the levels to enlightenment?

at a Bodhi tree from the same genetic line from where Gautama Buddha meditated in attaining enlightenment. This tree was a gift from Indian president Rajendra Prasat in 1959

these turtles are sold on the street fronting the Tran Quoc Pagoda to be offerings. They are then released into the lake, where the same vendors catch them again for resale. Animal cruelty in the name of religious devotion...sorry, I don't get it

Tran Quoc Pagoda and its surrounding lake

sidewalk haircut...it's actually normal in Hanoi

the grand Ho Chi Minh Museum and burial ground

yellow house by the lake....still inside the vast ground of the Ho Chi Minh Musuem

Reader Comments:

Jx Baliza
(6 Jan, 2015) eat at chaca la vong restaurant. the best. have fun in vietnam!

Vien

(6 Jan, 2015) Good luck to you...see you

Medalaine Pelegrin
(6 Jan, 2015) hello Git!! you look great!

Viveca

Boracay SandCastles
(Feb 3, 2015) Travelling light

Next stop: Boat Cruising on Halong Bay

Hanoi (city), Vietnam

IMPORTANT PLACES

Noi Bai International Airport

HOTEL

AZ Hanoi Hostel - Old Quarter location, backpacker-friendly, quiet, clean, affordable, breakfast included
27 Bat Dat Str, Hanoi, Vietnam

HANOI BLOGS

Hanoi, the Third Time Around Jul 27 - Aug 1, 2019
18-Day Mini-Life in Hanoi Jan 6-24, 2019
Cafescape of Hanoi's Old Quarter, Vietnam Jan 6-24, 2019
Peoplescape of Hanoi Jan 6-24, 2019
Exploring the Culinary Specialties of Hanoi Jan 6-24, 2019
Ca Tru Hanoi at the Dinh Kim Ngan Temple Jan 18, 2019
Hanoi Food Tour with Harry Jan 16, 2019
Hanoi Revisited Jan 6, 2019
Exploring the Northern Capital of Vietnam - Hanoi Jan 4-7, 2015

USEFUL INFORMATION

Noi Bai International Airport (HAN) to Old Quarter, Hanoi by Bus

The airport is about 30kms away from the Old Quarter so it could be pricey if you cab it. For budget travelers, there is the air-conditioned tourist bus #86 which starts from inside the airport when you walk out the door and takes you all the way to Old Quarter for only VND35k, 30 mins.
NOTE: if you use Google Maps, it will tell you that you have to walk 1km to catch the #86 bus along the main road - this is wrong!

FYI / Tips

Hanoi's Old Quarter is the backpacker area like Bangkok's Khaosan Road. The tourist establishments (hotels, restos, travel/tour agencies, cafes) are interspersed with local traditional businesses
Grab XeOm or moto taxis are abundant
street culture is alive and kicking at the Old Quarter. Family-owned and managed shophouses who have been doing their trade for generations are still around. Old Quarter hasn't been touched by shopping malls yet.
best place to exchange foreign currency is with the jewelry/gold shops (see list on map). Worst place are the tour shops/hotels.
BEWARE of resto tourist traps. Usually, they sell only one meal like Bun Cha. No menu, no prices. They are crafty in herding unsuspecting tourists (you will notice no local eats there) and serve them the Bun Cha without asking them (because it's the only thing they sell). You'll just be jolted when you receive the bill. I was had for VND 90k!

Things to do, Places to go in Hanoi

Old Quarter - this is old Hanoi where family-owned business flourished with its specialty trade. The streets are narrow and busy. Nowadays, it's the center for backpackers visiting Hanoi
lakes - Hanoi is littered with many big lakes, some of them have numerous pagodas along its bank. West Lake is the largest with an 18km circumference, ideal for joggers, hobby fishing and just finding quiet time
Tran Quoc Pagoda - the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi lying on its peninsula by West Lake
Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum - it's a massive marble structure housed inside an expansive park with manicured gardens

Vietnam FYI / Tips / Dos and Don'ts

Vietnamese smokers used to smoke in air-conditioned establishments, air-conditioned buses packed with people including women, children and babies. But this habit seems to be changing now.
Vietnam ranks almost the same as Thailand and Cambodia for cheap price. Laos, Myanmar and Malaysia cost more
internet speed is generally fast and reliable but during important events like Tet holiday, election, etc., it slows down
Vietnamese generally do not speak or understand much English. It will be a challenge.
only Vietnamese Dong is accepted as legal tender (change your dollars into Dong)
best to dress appropriately, not revealing too much skin (Saigon is an exception - the ladies there set the trend in very short shorts)
remove your shoes when entering a home or place of worship
ask first before taking someone's picture. If they say no, don't persist or offer money
best to carry your hotel's business card with you when going out. You can just show it to the cab driver or XeOm driver if they don't understand English
leave your valuables, passport, travel tickets, etc. with the hotel's safety deposit box
when lying down, don't point your feet or the soles of your shoes to anyone or to a family altar
carry only enough cash for your needs that day
don't lose your temper in public - Vietnamese people are warm, generous and polite. They look down on people who lose their composure
don't take pictures of military installations
refrain from taking videos of minority people until permitted to do so

General Travel Tips

arrive early - in case there is a snag (visa snag, documentation snag, transport ticket snag, etc.), you will have ample time to troubleshoot the problem if you arrive early (to the airport, to the bus terminal, etc.)
put detailed itinerary on the Calendar apps of your smart-phone according to timelines - this is where you do all your thinking and planning. Once written down, you don't have to think anymore while you are on the journey...you just follow the steps. This frees your mind for something else that might happen while you are already en route
avoiding scams - as a general rule, I ignore the touts or anyone I don't know who call out to me. The calling comes in many forms - "Hi! Where are you from?", "Excuse me! Excuse me!", "Where are you going?". I don't look them in the eye and I remain non-verbal with them. If you reply to them, you just gave them an 'in' to hound you. In order not to look rude, I smile and wave the 'not interested' hand to them, without looking at them.
power bank - hand-carry your power bank. Do not check it in. You can be called in when you are already inside the plane to go all the way to the loading dock so you can personally remove the power bank...and chances are, you'll have to surrender it to them. And you might delay the plane departure!

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