Bacolod to Reconnect with Kram

Location : Bacolod, Negros Occidental, Philippines

Background
Restless in my pursuit to find a place to settle down to, I embarked on an inter-island travel in search of that resonance. With Kram willing to host me in Bacolod, I made it my first stop. Kram is good people to me and I look forward to reconnecting with him.

Transport from Lazi, Siquijor to Bacolod, Negros Occidental

1. Lazi to Siquijor Proper - jeep, 6:00 to 7:10 am, P70 (day trips are 6, 7:30, 9 and 11 am)
2. Siquijor Proper to Dumaguete - Montenegro roro, 7:30am to 9:00 am, P234
3. Dumaguete to Bacolod - Ceres Bus, 6 hours, P510, a/c. Many buses leave throughout the day for Bacolod. No need to book in advance.

arriving Dumaguete over rough waters

Dumaguete
I had to be in Bacolod before 6 pm so time was tight. Fortunately, by getting the 6 am jeep in Lazi, I got the 7:30 am ferry to Dumaguete. Arriving Dumaguete at 9am gave me ample time to stop by the Painitan (P15/short trip on tricycle) for some budbud kabog (P30/pair) and sikwate (P10/demi-tasse) - my all time breakfast favorite in Dumaguete.

enjoying budbud cabog and sikwate at the Painitan Market

Bacolod with Kram
I met Kram at Manukan Country for some Inasal chicken (Bacolod's specialty). We had a refreshing catch-up on what took place in the intervening years. He gained a little bit of weight, but he hasn't changed a bit - still the same lovable Kram.

catching up with Kram at Manokan Country

I stayed with him for the 4 days I was in Bacolod, in his home in Sum-Ag, about 10 km from the city center. He was indefatigable in taking me around Bacolod - Don Salvador Benedicto (lucid thought: how self-absorbed can you be, imposing your long 20-character name to be the name of this municipality? You must really be pretty fucked-up), Lion's Park, Malatan-og Falls, etc. With Kram around, I saw a facet of Bacolod that would have remained unknown to me.

UPM Nur
We were joined by another UPM (UP Mountaineers), Nur. The 3 of us reminisced on the group, the climbs and the mems. Nur intimated on the inner workings of Bacolod - the who did what nobody knows. He seems to be privy within Bacolod's inner circle.

UPM gathering with Kram and Nur at the oyster den

with Kram and Nur at the roadside café

Oyster Place
I love oysters, and Kram took me to a neighborhood street with rows upon rows of oyster eateries - Villarosa Street. This is known to the locals but not exactly a popular tourist eating place (thank God, otherwise it would be expensive). A small bushel full of oysters sells for P100 - not bad.

oyster-galore along the Villarosa Street at P100/bushel

Campuestohan Highland Resort
Kram toured me to a far-flung resort, Campuestohan Highland Resort, 25 km from city center. It had a massive acreage with family recreational amenities. The size of the place seemed too big for what it offered. Back in Siquijor, when I narrated the Campuestohan Resort, I was told that the owner was a known drug lord. Drugs were cooked within the vicinity of the resort. When Duterte became president, the owner went into hiding and the government sequestered the property. Not sure if the government still owns the property. There seem to be many versions of this story.

Kanlaon Coffee Beans
In Siquijor, finding ground coffee is a challenge. But here at the Bacolod Market, coffee beans are sold - Batangas, Sagada, Kanlaon, etc. At P300/k, Kanlaon coffee beans is cheap because Mount Kanlaon is just a few kilometers away (Sagadqa is P750/k). I've climbed Mount Kanlaon in 2010 and savoring its coffee is something of a delight for me.

at the Bacolod Central Market for some Kanlaon coffee beans at P300/k

Iloilo vs Don Salvador Benedicto (DSB)
After Bacolod, I planned on going to Iloilo and perhaps meet up with Mark Wallbank. But Kram advised that I might like to visit Don Salvador Benedicto for its cool weather. Settling there would also mean I'm just an hour away from Bacolod to the west and about 2 hours away from San Carlos to the east. And from DSB, I could continue my travel to San Carlos, then cross the Tanon Strait to Toledo in Cebu Province, and then make my way to Cebu City. The idea appealed to me as I haven't been to San Carlos and Toledo. Additionally, I could talk to yoga studio owners in Cebu for my envisioned workshop with Marky. I abandoned my Iloilo itinerary and headed east towards DSB/San Carlos.

Ending Thoughts
As I was exploring Bacolod again - Ayala Mall, SM Mall, Robinsons, Manokan, oyster row, etc., I realized that the urban amenities of Bacolod is what I'm looking for. But the other side of the coin is what I'll be giving up if I leave Siquijor - the natural spring and yoga by the seawall. Bacolod offers the interaction/stimulation I seek while Siquijor offers magic. It's no contest - from what I've seen, Bacolod does not unseat Siquijor. My takeaway from Bacolod? Kram!

--- Gigit (TheLoneRider)
YOGA by Gigit | Learn English | Travel like a Nomad | Donation Bank

Next Traveling story:

Exploring San Carlos, Cebu

(Jan 30-Feb 1, 2024) From Bacolod, I would have stopped at Don Salvador Benedicto for its cool climate and elevation, but it was too isolated and remote for a place to settle down to. I decided to see it from my bus window en route to San Carlos. I haven't been to San Carlos and I'm curious what's there....more »»

More on Bacolod:

Bacolod >> San Carlos >> Cebu City by Ceres bus

Bacolod to San Carlos
At the Bacolod Ceres Terminal, take the bus heading to Cebu City via DSB. It will make a stop at the San Carlos bus terminal, P206 reg, 3 hours. Departures: 1:30 am, 6 am, 9:30 am, 11:30 am, 1:30 pm, 5:30 pm, 11:30 pm (last trip)

Bacolod to Cebu City
At the Bacolod Ceres Terminal, there are 3 bus routes going to Cebu City: via Kanlaon, DSB and Mabinay. Departures: 1:30 am, 6 am, 9:30 am, 11:30 am, 1:30 pm, 5:30 pm, 11:30 pm (last trip)

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