Penang (Malaysia) Immersion

Location: Penang, Malaysia

Off to Penang from Kuala Lumpur
After 2 days in Kuala Lumpur, it was clear I wasn't enjoying myself anymore. Where to go? I could leave Malaysia altogether, but I still had 28 days left on my visa. I didn't want to waste it. Penang has always been tempting and unfulfilled since I wasn't able to visit last year when I was in KL. I've heard good things about the food scene. With further transport research, I learned that with the fast ETS train, it's less than 4 hours. With that, I was off for Penang thinking I'd be going to a rural town isolated in its own history and time. I was in for a shock!

The Trip from KL to Penang
Altogether, the trip was painless. I went to KL Sentral, boarded my ETS (KTMB) train and I arrived in Butterworth after 3 hours and 50 minutes! It was a walk to the ferry station (Sultan Abdul Halim Ferry Terminal) where I boarded the ferry for Georgetown (Weld Quay, aka - Jetty) - 20 minutes, MYR 1.20. From the Jetty, again, it was a short walk to the bus terminal in Georgetown for a trip to the city center. There is a free bus - Free Cat, which takes you around the Old City of Georgetown, where most of the backpacker hostels are located. The free bus departs every 15 minutes.

street-art girl looking at the sea as the old ways of Penang are supplanted by modern scrappers defining the skyline

Penang City
To my surprise, Penang was none of what I thought it would be. Perhaps it has seen better days, but Penang is a full scale city with its own harbour, heritage (and well preserved) buildings, financial center, first-rate transport system and quaint charm to top it all! It has a rich culture and a fascinating history. At first glance, the energy felt right already. I knew I was going to enjoy myself here. I thought I was getting tired of traveling with my low energy in Kuala Lumpur, but upon arrival in Penang, I realized it wasn't me. It was how I was interacting with Kuala Lumpur.

Lodging

Just Inn
I booked online to make sure I had a quick place to stay upon arrival. With the low season, I paid MYR 18 for a bunk bed at Just Inn. I was lucky to have picked that place. It's new, clean, spacious, organized and centrally located. Tay, the guesthouse manager, was helpful and friendly. I was a short walk to food hawkers and the street art scene. I met fellow travelers whom I spent a fun time with during my stay.

Le Dream Boutique Hotel
I lucked-out having stayed 3 nights at Le Dream Boutique Hotel. It's new (just a few months open) and stylish with a modern theme. A sumptuous buffet breakfast is included with the room. It is centrally located as well (near the mall, Comtar, bus station but still within the Old City of Georgetown). The hotel has so many perks for its guests - free laundry, free shuttle service, free ice cream-cookies-coffee, free wine from 5:30-7:30pm, free nightly movie. I had the use of the roofdeck jacuzzi and gym. I was in wonderland, pampered and lavished, the entire 3 nights.

Casa Inn 56
As I checked-out of Le Dream, I drifted into the Love Lane street of Old City and chanced on this newly opened backpacker lodge - Casa Inn 56. I got lucky again having picked it. At MYR 20, it included breakfast and wifi. It was stylish in the Penang heritage tradition. It was clean, spacious (lobby and chillout center) with good energy for just hanging out. Likewise, I met a lot of travelers whom I spent time with.

I would highly recommend all these 3 places in Penang.

Typical Day
I'd been traveling for 4 years now and the mindset is no longer into exhausting everything a place can offer and crossing out items on the checklist. Paid packaged-tours are not that appealing either given many things to do on my own. In Penang, I would spend most of my days just walking around the city, getting surprised at the next street art around the bend. I eat on roadside stalls when I get hungry, getting to the end of the line for eats when I see people lining-up on a food stall - a clear indication this is a famous eating place. I would invariably be meeting people along the way. If it's too hot to be exploring around, I would do my online stuff in the comfort of my hostel. I may meet incoming hostel guests and a new people-interaction ensues. For the most part, I don't behave like a traveler...more like someone looking for a home with whatever time I can work with.

Wish List
As good as it gets in Penang, it's not perfect. I think Penang would be a better tourist destination with the following implementation.

• smoking in public - I don't mind if people smoke as long as it's in open public spaces like a park or on the street. But not in fan restaurants or hostel lobbies. Just because no one openly complains doens't mean it's ok to breath-in 2nd hand smoke.
• sidewalk - I find this odd considering Penang is now a global destination. The Old City has sidewalks but not clear throughout. People eventually have to walk on the narrow roads and be grazed closely by passing motorists.
• peeling street art paint - one of Penang's attractions next to food is its street art. But surface preparation and quality of paint used is inferior. Already, famous art pieces are peeling off the wall.

Peoplescape

Having stayed long in Penang in just a few lodges, I experienced the coming and going of travelers, some of whom I've become friends with. Like most places I've been too, it's a non-stop turning of a revolving door, seeing people I'm just developing a connection with, leave...and seeing new faces come in, knowing fully well the cycle repeates itself. You eat 'impermanence' for breakfast and 'detachment' becomes the name of the game.

Abundance
Money-wise and accommodation-wise, Penang was giving. A little here and a little there goes a long way. It's not about getting rich, it's just about getting bus fare for the next place. The universe provides...when the need arises. I've met wonderful people I think I'll be bumping into again. I look forward to that.

Ending Thoughts
With the 23 days I spent in Penang, I had the luxury of getting the feel of the place....instead of seeing it as a passing blur. Penang is one of those special places you want to stay longer in. It's got all the right ingredients working well together - coastal location, food capital, street art, friendly locals, chill travelers, budget friendly, and an overall energy that feels reassuring. Penang is definitely one of the places I would recommend to any traveler. I put it up there with Bangkok, Singapore, Pai, Da Lat, Hoi An, Siem Reap and Luang Prabang. As good as the going was, I felt the looming restlessness. With 5 more days left on my visa, it was time to move on and see another destination before leaving Malaysia altogether.

--- TheLoneRider

Next stop: Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

Google Map

Penang, Malaysia

tourist attractions

• Batu Ferringhi - beach resort town 30 minutes from Georgetown
• Turtle Beach (Pantai Kerachut) at the National Park (Taman Negara) - free admission, beach, camping, trekking and maybe you get to see a turtle lay eggs
• Penang Hill - panoramic view of Penang from 830 meters above sea level
  Hours: 6:30am–10:30pm, Phone: +60 19-750 2139
• Botanical Gardens - developed in 1884, the garden is 29 hectares of prime evergreen tropical rain forests just on the outskirt of Georgetown
  10470 George Town, Penang | 5am–9pm | +60 4-227 0428
• Penang National Park - with 2,562 hectares, the park is home to 46 species of birds such as the stork-billed kingfishers, white-breasted waterhens and great egrets. The sandy beach of Pantai Kerachut is also a nesting place of Green turtles from April to August
• Pinang Peranakan Mansion - a stately home has been renovated to back to its former glory to showcase the opulence, lifestyle and times of the Peranakan a century ago. Monday to Sunday including Public Holidays from 9:30 am to 5 pm. Admission: MYR20.00
• Dark Mansion - 3D Glow In The Dark Museum - modern interactive 3D art Museum with the "Glow in the Dark" theme | 145, Lebuh Kimberley, 10100 Georgetown, Penang | Adult MYR 18, kids MYR 10 | Mon-Fri: 10:00 - 18:30, Sat-Sun: 10:00 - 21:30

- hotel

• Le Dream Boutique Hotel - central location, fitness gym, jacuzzi, compli wine hour, all day treats, movie nights
  139, Jalan Pintai Tali, Georgetown - 5°24'55.9"N 100°19'58.4"E
• Just Inn - central location, clean, affordable, helpful and friendly staff
  155,157,159, Carnarvon Street, 10100 George Town, Malaysia - 5°24'53.8"N 100°20'05.3"E

- restaurant

• My Voice - Big Bowl Ramen - 2 locations to serve you, biggest ramen bowl for everyone to join
  1. C-5-1, Lorong Bayan Indah 3 Bay Avenue, 11900 Bayan Lepas, Penang, George Town
  2. Penang Chew Jetty

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