Parting of the Maeklong Railway Market with a Passing Train

Location: Google Maps

Global Sensation
Maeklong Market is unique. You've seen it in several travel shows - even National Geographic and Discovery Chanel. There is a crowded wet market along a train railway. When the train comes, the vendors unhurriedly collapse their huge umbrellas and move their awnings giving way to the slow-passing train. They move everything back after the train has passed. This scene is so unique it has become a Mecca for global travelers visiting Bangkok - which is a good 81 kms away! Now, with Chai, Mar, Christina and Mayet (I fondly refer to as the Amphawa Crew), I get to see it first-hand!

History
The railway line is 67kms long and originally consisted of 2 stages that merged at the Tha Chin River in 1907 to transport produce from the fishing ports of Samut Sakhon and Samut Songkram to the Bangkok markets. A bus station has since been incorporated to the railway stop to ease traffic congestion coming from Bangkok. This is perhaps Thailand's slowest trains with an average speed of 30km/hr. If you plan to commute on this train from Bangkok to Maeklong, best to be prepared for the long haul. 17 trains pass in each direction daily.

Here Comes the Train
The coming train could be heard long before it comes. It is nothing less ceremonious than an arriving rock star. Visitors ready-up their phones, cameras and videos to catch the moment as they line-up along the tracks. Some stay on the tracks and move out at the last instance. All attention is focused on the train. And with its arrival, it's like a zipper opening up the market as it comes. Some travelers stay so close to the tracks it's almost like their nose is grazed by the slow-moving train. And as you see the train moving away, you also see the tracks being transformed into a market as vendors open-up their umbrellas and spread their awnings back.

Maeklong Railway Market by Renegade Travels

Market Scene
Aside from the parting of the market, the market itself is also something to experience. It is one of Thailand's biggest fresh seafood markets with its center right along the tracks. Walking along the tracks allows you to see goods offered at the market but it's also worthwhile exploring the inner sections for a more diverse seafood offering.

the tracks reverting back into a market after the passing train

Philippine Version
We have a Philippine version of this scene but it's not for the faint-hearted tourist. It's not at all for the benefit of any tourist. A market is spawned in the middle of a squatter's area - it's rough and it's tough. When the train passes, goods are moved away just like Maeklong. But this place is chaotic, dirty and perhaps even unsafe.

To put an even interesting spin, garbage is thrown by the squaters on the train tops. Why? Because they are squatters (illegal settlers), there is no government service in place - not even garbage collection. So, how do the squatters dispose of their garbage? By throwing them on the roof of the passing trains. So, when the train arrives at its destination, usually Bicol, there is a cleaning team prepared to haul out the piles of garbage collected from different parts of the Philippines along the train route.

Philippine Version of Maeklong Railway Market

Ending Thoughts
To travelers from first world countries where you see public outrage when high-tech bullet trains run 1 minute late, the Maeklong spectacle is indeed a mind-blower which requires video evidence to convince a disbeliever.

Thank you Chai, Mar, Christina and Mayet for sharing your pictures!

--- TheLoneRider
YOGA by Gigit | Learn English | Travel like a Nomad | Donation Bank

pictures courtesy of Chai, Mayet, Mar and Christina

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